DPS World Forum Index
Main FAQ Search Groups Members List Profile Private Messages
Log-in Register
 
DPS World Forum Index


AD/DA ICP (Fuse) Replacement
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DPS World Forum Index -> DPS 24
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
squeegybug



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 2511
Location: Springfield, MO

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:46 am    Post subject: AD/DA ICP (Fuse) Replacement Reply with quote

Here's a rough overview of the procedure to replace the SF7 ICP on the DPS24 AD/DA board. This is a real stripped-down version, just ask if something's not clear. We may try to pretty this up and put on Joe C's site, but for now this might be enough to get us by, as long as Dan doesn't mind sparing the disk space (~6 MB) for the photos. If you need us to move it sooner, Dan, just let me know.

Thanks a bunch to Pete Generous for his help when mine had trouble, to Adrian via althemusicwizard for originally posting the DPS24 Service Manual, and of course to Sean for guiding us on this all along.

Some background on my experience with this is here: http://dpsworld.vibestudio.net/viewtopic.php?t=1166& , and we just recently discussed it here as well: http://dpsworld.vibestudio.net/viewtopic.php?t=1547 .

The Integrated Circuit Protector is essentially a fuse for the AD/DA PCB. It is known to be rated conservatively, and has failed on numerous machines. When it fails, the meters will show playback levels as normal, but no sound is heard from the monitor or headphone outputs. Analog mic/line inputs don't work either. Digital I/O still works fine.


Step 1: Turn the Deeps off of course, and remove the power cable. Lower the LCD and lock it (or tape it down, etc.), then turn the Deeps upside down on a soft blanket/pillow/etc. Or sometimes I put a blanket or pillow on a soft couch, set the back (where the inputs/outputs are) down on this pad, then lean it against the sofa back.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 2: From Page 6 of the Service Manual, Figure 1 -- Remove the (3) screws under the front lip, then the (2) screws in the center of the bottom panel. You don't need to remove any other screws unless you just want to get into the drive bays.

BTW, these are all the same Phillips head self-tapping screw used all through the DPS24, so you don't have to sort them. Another fine design feature of this machine, IMO.



Turn the machine right side up again and set it on a table or bench.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 3: As shown on Page 5 in the Service Manual -- Remove the (5) screws from each plastic side panel. These are all the same machine screw, Phillips head. Pull off the panels, and remove the (5) screws on the side that hold the DPS top and bottom together, then the (8) screws along the top of the back panel.



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 4: Service Manual, Page 7 -- Shows the location of the "PC ADDA BLK"



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 5: Get the right part. From Page 16 in the Service Manual -- this shows the part number and type: SF7 EF-376821 FUSE ICP-N15 50V 0.6A




Here's a photo of the fuse (N15 50V 0.6A), cost me $1.86 at a local pro audio repair shop. Thanks again Pete for the tip on this:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 6: Here I am, preparing to "go in". The magnifier glasses are similar to the ones my late Granddad always used when working on his old tube equipment (and when getting splinters out of grandkids), indispensable for this kind of work. And of course they are very stylish, I like to wear them out to social events as often as possible, always get comments from the babes with these on. Not saying what kind of comments...

And that's Grandpa Mack's soldering gun, although I didn't actually use it for this job, too much heat. I used a Radio Shack 20 watt pencil model. 15-20 watts is about right for this kind of component. Also, I wore a static-strap wristband when handling the electronics, not shown in these photos.




That prop on the right is important Ė the DPS ďhingesĒ along its back edge, and the whole top just tilts right up. But it doesnít have a builtin prop like your car hood might, so you have to improvise. I used a heavy corrugated cardboard panel I had laying around. The length happened to be just right as well, 17.25 inches, or about 435 mm for our European friends. Donít push the top up too far, or youíll pull the AD ribbon cables loose.


Another view of the inside. Thatís the AD/DA board straight ahead, with those two slender AD ribbon cables running into it:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 7: Hereís a shot of the AD/DA board, looking from the left side of the Deeps, across to the right side:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 8: Disconnect the power cable from the board to be able to get to the ICP a little easier:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 9: This is the critical first step Ė even though your machine has shown the symptoms of AD/DA fuse failure, always check the fuse to make certain the circuit is indeed open. Else youíre chasing the wrong problem. Yes, thatís Granddadís B&K; all the grandsons got to choose which of his equipment they wanted after he died, so I picked that and the soldering gun. Not sure who got the glasses.... anyway.... just a simple continuity check with an ohmmeter:




A closeup shot of the SF7 ICP, with the multimeter probes attached across the legs:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 10: Rather than de-solder from the pads and insert the new fuse, I decided to solder the new fuse onto the old legs, to get me more room to work. I cut the legs close to the old fuse body and left them soldered to the PCB. I donít know if this is proper procedure for this kind of replacement, perhaps the electrons will notice that additional 3 mm or so of length, and not allow the fuse to react in time when next needed... but I doubt it.

In this photo I have already snipped the old fuse off its legs, and have soldered one of the legs of the new fuse onto the old leg. Iíve temporarily rubberbanded the new one to a friendly neighboring capacitor, to help hold it steady while I soldered. Kinda looks like a hug, doesn't it? tongue :




Again, I used a 20 watt iron, with .031Ē rosin core Kester solder. Donít get the leg too hot or youíll disconnect it from the PCB pad. But, itís no big deal if you do, just resolder there.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 11: Here's the new fuse, soldered in place to the old legs. You might notice I've removed more pieces than actually necessary at this point, the expansion board ports and cables at the lower right do not need to be removed from their frame, as I discovered later. But it did give me a little more room:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 12: Re-check continuity of the new fuse before closing the patient:





Also, in addition to the ICP issue, my jog wheel (inner fine resolution control) was loose since new, and wobbled. Per Adrian's instructions I tightened up the two Allen screws that hold its shaft while I was in there. Wow, a wonderful improvement:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step 13: All well again...




Notice that spiffy new black CD bezel! I really like the looks of that, itís an in-stock replacement from Plextor, cost $12 including shipping.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Thatís it for now, hope it helps. Again let me know if somethingís missing, or this is too much for the forum drives, etc. I learned a lot on this project, and one important thing was how well the DPS24 is constructed. Lots of room, well placed components and routing, excellent heat dissipation, and quite serviceable.

I was told that once the ICP was replaced, the problem does not return, so I believe itís worth doing. But, this issue likely has some resolution on the new machines, so this post may be obsolete fairly soon anyway.


Steve
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Musicianista



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 650
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post, Steve. Very concise. I like the glasses too! lookout

popcorn
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ambientdrone



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 398
Location: Suburbs of Philadelphia, PA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is one additional mod that can be done to prevent the ICP from blowing in the future. This info was provided to Pete G. by a very reliable Akai employee when he did his repair.

The quote from the provider of this info to Pete is a follows:

Quote:
I just wanted to give you a heads up, since I believe that you are going to ask a technician to fix your DPS24 (replace the SF7 ICP).

I can't post this on a public forum, but it would be good if at the same time, your technician can make the small modification described in the attached PDF document to the AD/DA board (where the SF7 ICP is located).
This modification helps preventing the "blown fuse" issue from happening again.


Here is a link to the PDF:

Link to Countermeasures for SF7

I believe that Pete had his technician make this mod...
_________________
Dave
http://www.artistserver.com/ambientsoundscapes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Havlicek
Dps24 Guru


Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 8164
Location: East Hampton, NY

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

...excellent post Steve! You look like you're doing micro-surgery...except I couldn't see an anesthesiologist standing by :-)

-john
_________________
BUY MY CD @ SONGRAMP

johnhavlicek.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Musicianista



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 650
Location: Sydney, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dave.

That looks like a complete bypass of the fuse? Like hotwiring the AD/DA board as unprotected.

Only an issue for those who still have any warranty left, I suppose.

All good stuff. Thanks mate.

popcorn
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
althemusicwizard



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 2602

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brilliant Steve.......

I've just saved the lot into a Word Doc......just in case.

Thanks again.....

Al
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
bass5nochops



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 116
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio, United States

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Musicianista wrote:
That looks like a complete bypass of the fuse? Like hotwiring the AD/DA board as unprotected.

I agree. It looks like a bypass and I doubt that fuse will fail again!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Joe



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 1340
Location: Los Angeles

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some valuable info Steve - thanks for taking the time to document the procedure.

Quote:
We may try to pretty this up and put on Joe C's site, but for now this might be enough to get us by, as long as Dan doesn't mind sparing the disk space (~6 MB) for the photos.


Steve, The way DPS World is set up, Dan isn't using any disk space to host the pics, they are being hosted by the sunsetwind site where you uploaded them - so I doubt he minds... However, if you can't keep them at the sunsetwind site and need me to host them for you, that is no problem.

Unless you have more details to add, this post alone seems sufficient to help anyone daring enough to dig in... Maybe a sticky?

Dave, I took a look at that diagram - it reminded me of how I use to replace my car fuses as a teen - wrap them in tinfoil Mr. Green


-Joe
_________________
My Songramp page - My Myspace page - My Soundclick page - My Band's website
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
DrFunk7777



Joined: 10 Aug 2005
Posts: 102

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Notice that spiffy new black CD bezel! I really like the looks of that, itís an in-stock replacement from Plextor, cost $12 including shipping.


NICE! Do you have a link to it? I tried to search it, but didn't find it. Thanks!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
squeegybug



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 2511
Location: Springfield, MO

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ambientdrone wrote:
There is one additional mod that can be done to prevent the ICP from blowing in the future.

Yes, I had this schematic as well, but elected not to do the bypass. From my conversations with Dave Segimoto at VST it sounds like once the ICP is replaced it doesn't fail again. Don't know if it's a better toleranced part, different supplier, or what. It's not an uprated fuse, I know that. To do the mod requires removing the entire AD/DA PCB in order to get to the back side. I actually did this, but then decided to only replace the fuse and see what happens. If it fails again I'll consider doing the mod, or probably have a tech do it, since it's not exactly trivial to cut the trace and solder the jumper. Or, I might just run a lead and quick-connect outside the DPS and make the fuse serviceable !


Musicianista wrote:
That looks like a complete bypass of the fuse?

Actually that's a dual layer PCB, so the routing is not as simple as it appears on that print. It is definitely not a complete bypass, but I haven't traced it to figure out how it "reduces" the load on the ICP. As I understand it, this modification was a compromise from Akai, since they didn't want to uprate the fuse, and is still covered by warranty if performed by an authorized center.


Joe wrote:
Dan isn't using any disk space to host the pics

doh! Of course you're right Joe, I got this confused with some other forums that actually upload the pics. I can leave them there no problem, but will keep yours in mind if something changes, or we need a backup.


DrFunk7777 wrote:
Do you have a link to it?

Here you go: http://www.plextor.com/english/support/faqs/G00040.htm

I just called and ordered it, didn't see a place to order online.


Steve
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian_Oz in_London



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 985
Location: London

PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2005 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have so many good articles and helps now that we could really put a book together as well the DVD... "Going Deeper" An enthusiasts guide to the Akai DPS 24 including service tips and tricks. :)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
tablatom



Joined: 16 Nov 2005
Posts: 20
Location: uley england

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow this chat room is so great.
i've got a dps16 and thinking to move to a 24. being in the uk with no akai specific dealer i have hesitated, but this forum is better than that.

dave i listened to your music. i really like it. has the recent tracks been done on the deeps?
some awesome ambiences.
ian , a book would be great. going deep . i like that. it could be a book also on the 16 and 12. i chat alot with 16 and 12 people at

akaidps12@yahoogroups.com.

i would like to contrubute my 2 pence on the 16.

tom a kiwi in gloucestershire BlueNotes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
ambientdrone



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 398
Location: Suburbs of Philadelphia, PA

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tablatom wrote:
...
dave i listened to your music. i really like it. has the recent tracks been done on the deeps?

Yes...all the tracks were recorded on the DPS24. Thanks for listening...
_________________
Dave
http://www.artistserver.com/ambientsoundscapes
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Truss



Joined: 06 Feb 2005
Posts: 431
Location: Kelowna BC Canada

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve........Great post! Very clear instructions and photos.

If something like this went wrong with my machine I'd be in serious du-du since I kinda live in the sticks. Nice to know I could do it myself.

Thanks for posting this.

Derek
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
paris



Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:15 pm    Post subject: Re: AD/DA ICP (Fuse) Replacement Reply with quote

is there anyplace online where i can download the service manual?


[quote="squeegybug"]Here's a rough overview of the procedure to replace the SF7 ICP on the DPS24 AD/DA board. This is a real stripped-down version, just ask if something's not clear. We may try to pretty this up and put on Joe C's site, but for now this might be enough to get us by, as long as Dan doesn't mind sparing the disk space (~6 MB) for the photos. If you need us to move it sooner, Dan, just let me know.

Thanks a bunch to Pete Generous for his help when mine had trouble, to Adrian via althemusicwizard for originally posting the DPS24 Service Manual, and of course to Sean for guiding us on this all along.

Some background on my experience with this is here: http://dpsworld.vibestudio.net/viewtopic.php?t=1166& , and we just recently discussed it here as well: http://dpsworld.vibestudio.net/viewtopic.php?t=1547 .

The Integrated Circuit Protector is essentially a fuse for the AD/DA PCB. It is known to be rated conservatively, and has failed on numerous machines. When it fails, the meters will show playback levels as normal, but no sound is heard from the monitor or headphone outputs. Analog mic/line inputs don't work either. Digital I/O still works fine.


[b][u]Step 1[/u]:[/b] Turn the Deeps off of course, and remove the power cable. Lower the LCD and lock it (or tape it down, etc.), then turn the Deeps upside down on a soft blanket/pillow/etc. Or sometimes I put a blanket or pillow on a soft couch, set the back (where the inputs/outputs are) down on this pad, then lean it against the sofa back.

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_Upside_down.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 2[/u]:[/b] From Page 6 of the Service Manual, Figure 1 -- Remove the (3) screws under the front lip, then the (2) screws in the center of the bottom panel. You don't need to remove any other screws unless you just want to get into the drive bays.

BTW, these are all the same Phillips head self-tapping screw used all through the DPS24, so you don't have to sort them. Another fine design feature of this machine, IMO.

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/2A-Screws_2.jpg[/img]

Turn the machine right side up again and set it on a table or bench.

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 3[/u]:[/b] As shown on Page 5 in the Service Manual -- Remove the (5) screws from each plastic side panel. These are all the same machine screw, Phillips head. Pull off the panels, and remove the (5) screws on the side that hold the DPS top and bottom together, then the (8) screws along the top of the back panel.

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/1-Screws_1.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 4[/u]:[/b] Service Manual, Page 7 -- Shows the location of the "PC ADDA BLK"

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/3-ADDA_Location.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 5[/u]:[/b] Get the right part. From Page 16 in the Service Manual -- this shows the part number and type: SF7 EF-376821 FUSE ICP-N15 50V 0.6A

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/4-ICP_SF7.jpg[/img]


Here's a photo of the fuse (N15 50V 0.6A), cost me $1.86 at a local pro audio repair shop. Thanks again Pete for the tip on this:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_9-pic.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 6[/u]:[/b] Here I am, preparing to "go in". The magnifier glasses are similar to the ones my late Granddad always used when working on his old tube equipment (and when getting splinters out of grandkids), indispensable for this kind of work. And of course they are very stylish, I like to wear them out to social events as often as possible, always get comments from the babes with these on. Not saying what kind of comments...

And that's Grandpa Mack's soldering gun, although I didn't actually use it for this job, too much heat. I used a Radio Shack 20 watt pencil model. 15-20 watts is about right for this kind of component. Also, I wore a static-strap wristband when handling the electronics, not shown in these photos.

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_5-pic.jpg[/img]


That prop on the right is important Ė the DPS ďhingesĒ along its back edge, and the whole top just tilts right up. But it doesnít have a builtin prop like your car hood might, so you have to improvise. I used a heavy corrugated cardboard panel I had laying around. The length happened to be just right as well, 17.25 inches, or about 435 mm for our European friends. Donít push the top up too far, or youíll pull the AD ribbon cables loose.


Another view of the inside. Thatís the AD/DA board straight ahead, with those two slender AD ribbon cables running into it:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_ADDA_and_PROP.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 7[/u]:[/b] Hereís a shot of the AD/DA board, looking from the left side of the Deeps, across to the right side:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_6-pic.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 8[/u]:[/b] Disconnect the power cable from the board to be able to get to the ICP a little easier:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_7-pic.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 9[/u]:[/b] This is the critical first step Ė even though your machine has shown the symptoms of AD/DA fuse failure, always check the fuse to make certain the circuit is indeed open. Else youíre chasing the wrong problem. Yes, thatís Granddadís B&K; all the grandsons got to choose which of his equipment they wanted after he died, so I picked that and the soldering gun. Not sure who got the glasses.... anyway.... just a simple continuity check with an ohmmeter:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_Meter_Check_1.jpg[/img]


A closeup shot of the SF7 ICP, with the multimeter probes attached across the legs:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_8-pic.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 10[/u]:[/b] Rather than de-solder from the pads and insert the new fuse, I decided to solder the new fuse onto the old legs, to get me more room to work. I cut the legs close to the old fuse body and left them soldered to the PCB. I donít know if this is proper procedure for this kind of replacement, perhaps the electrons will notice that additional 3 mm or so of length, and not allow the fuse to react in time when next needed... but I doubt it.

In this photo I have already snipped the old fuse off its legs, and have soldered one of the legs of the new fuse onto the old leg. Iíve temporarily rubberbanded the new one to a friendly neighboring capacitor, to help hold it steady while I soldered. Kinda looks like a hug, doesn't it? :tongue: :

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_11-pic.jpg[/img]


Again, I used a 20 watt iron, with .031Ē rosin core Kester solder. Donít get the leg too hot or youíll disconnect it from the PCB pad. But, itís no big deal if you do, just resolder there.

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 11[/u]:[/b] Here's the new fuse, soldered in place to the old legs. You might notice I've removed more pieces than actually necessary at this point, the expansion board ports and cables at the lower right do not need to be removed from their frame, as I discovered later. But it did give me a little more room:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_Closeup_New_Fuse.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 12[/u]:[/b] Re-check continuity of the new fuse before closing the patient:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_Final_Continuity_Test.jpg[/img]



Also, in addition to the ICP issue, my jog wheel (inner fine resolution control) was loose since new, and wobbled. Per Adrian's instructions I tightened up the two Allen screws that hold its shaft while I was in there. Wow, a wonderful improvement:

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_14-JOG.jpg[/img]

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


[b][u]Step 13[/u]:[/b] All well again...

[img]http://sunsetwind.com/Steve/DPS24_ICP/Resized/Resized_Back_Together_Black_CD.jpg[/img]


Notice that spiffy new black CD bezel! I really like the looks of that, itís an in-stock replacement from Plextor, cost $12 including shipping.

[b]-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------[/b]


Thatís it for now, hope it helps. Again let me know if somethingís missing, or this is too much for the forum drives, etc. I learned a lot on this project, and one important thing was how well the DPS24 is constructed. Lots of room, well placed components and routing, excellent heat dissipation, and quite serviceable.

I was told that once the ICP was replaced, the problem does not return, so I believe itís worth doing. But, this issue likely has some resolution on the new machines, so this post may be obsolete fairly soon anyway.


Steve[/quote]
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
squeegybug



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 2511
Location: Springfield, MO

PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 8:30 pm    Post subject: Re: AD/DA ICP (Fuse) Replacement Reply with quote

paris wrote:
is there anyplace online where i can download the service manual?

Look at the post at the top of this forum called Sticky: * PDF docs- Getting Started/DPS24 Service Manual/Schematic **

There's a link in there to SOC9's site www.sideroadsband.com/steve which has the guide and other goodies.

Steve
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
paris



Joined: 01 Aug 2006
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:47 am    Post subject: Re: AD/DA ICP (Fuse) Replacement Reply with quote

Thanks again for the manual and everything.
What cd, dvd, hard disk you suggest I mount to my DPS for best performance?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
kellymark



Joined: 10 May 2005
Posts: 33
Location: Belfast, N.Ireland

PostPosted: Sat Feb 10, 2007 4:26 pm    Post subject: Despite Superlative community resolution to ICP-N15 fault Reply with quote

The ability to check the forum for a possible reason for a fault that at first scares the pants of you, has you scratching your head and then like a demented being quoting previously unheard of Shakespeare, is such a blessing. The family are able to return from their secret hiding places and normal service can be resumed.

However a search of major UK electrical component suppliers fails to unearth
anything that relates to the product.

Any UK user have the ICP-N15 failure and manage to resolve it with a local supplier

Mark
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
45 North Keyboardist



Joined: 03 Apr 2005
Posts: 192
Location: Martinsville, IN

PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2007 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Need To post some Supplier Information In regards to the lil' part. When I went to Radio Shack the once useful place for getting all kinds of electronic parts, they didn't have any information or the kid on the phone was just too stupid to assist me.

I called a national distributor of NTE products and asked them about this particular part...

Maximum: 50 volts
Current: 0.6 amps
Typical Resistance .135 ohms

It's not a fuze. It's called an IC Protector when calling your electronics supplier shop.

NTE is the brand I found here in the States and the NTE Part No. is #15021E.

In the Midwest Meonier Electronics has 5 in stock. Their phone number is (317)635-3511. Ask for Amy.

Prices are subject to change but uber cheap. They take credit cards and will ship anywhere in the world.
_________________
Howard L. Salter
Keyboardist
http://www.reverbnation.com/howardlsalter
Have Rig Will Travel.......
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Yahoo Messenger
mikephilryan



Joined: 22 Feb 2007
Posts: 35

PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent post!!!!
My DPS's output died mid-song and I was freaked out.....I tried everything to fix with no avail....
Checked the forum and Im back in business next day $1.50 poorer

It doesnt get any better!!!

Thanks
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ian_Oz in_London



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 985
Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2008 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Needed to do a fuse change today on my second DPS 24 and wanted to just remind people how helpful this article is by Steve! The 2nd DPS24 is getting heavy use in the school studio and is holding up very well.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message MSN Messenger
Popmann



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
Posts: 1436
Location: Twangville

PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, the symptom of this is all the analog IO just going silent all of a sudden?

...I think I've got this. The ADAT lights on the KSP8 are still jumping, so I assume the digital IO is still working.

So, some time has passed here...is the current recommendation to replace it in place? Seems like a I read something about Steve extending wires out the back so it could be replaced if it went south again?

This is the first issue I've had in 4 or 5 years. I guess I should consider myself lucky. At the same time...I've got an ADAT board on it's way...new hard drive(s) arrived today...I'd like to try to track the part down locally if I can--get it here ASAP.

Hopefully, I won't futz it up too badly. I really suck at soldering.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Popmann



Joined: 02 Feb 2005
Posts: 1436
Location: Twangville

PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey...and so long as I'm opening it up...does anyone know how to mod the headphone out to be indenpendent from the monitor out? Like the later Mk1 and new Mk2 units are stock?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Peakly



Joined: 21 Mar 2006
Posts: 1969
Location: Northern Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Popmann wrote:
I really suck at soldering.


You couldn't be any worse than me, Pop. I hope you get it all up and running soon!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
squeegybug



Joined: 01 Feb 2005
Posts: 2511
Location: Springfield, MO

PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pop, I did indeed wire an extension to the PCB and ran it out the optional card panel on the back. Soldered the ICP at the end, so I can pull it out if needed and not have to open the machine. Of course it has not failed since I did that, so must have put some fear in it.

There is a proper modification that can be done to the board to prevent this early failure, see my posts above about that. Not really that big of deal I think, but I have not done it.

As for the headphone mod -- I believe that is also related to a software change, since the updated headphone output also comes with new menu options for High/Med/Low volume levels. Even if you did find a way to just change the wiring I'm not sure it would work properly without whatever software routing went along with it. I don't know about doing those changes, sorry.

Steve
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    DPS World Forum Index -> DPS 24 All times are GMT - 5 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


xeon Template © Digital-Delusion
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group